Friday, April 6, 2018

Dia da Mulher Mocambicana: 7 de Abril

Mozambican Women's Day: April 7th!

Tomorrow is a very important day in Mozambique! It's a day where women are CELEBRATED. Recognized... seen... and appreciated. The day is marked by the death of the young Josina Machel. Machel was largely involved with FRELIMO and the liberation efforts of Mozambicans. She promoted women's participation in the process and fought for the human rights of all Mozambicans while also fighting for women's rights. She was diagnosed with liver cancer, sought treatment for a short period of time, but later came back to Mozambique to continue her efforts. She later died at the very young age of 25. You can read more about Josina Machel here.

This week in my English classes I asked students to write about why it's important to celebrate women here in Mozambique. I got a majority of responses focused on Josina Machel and her role in the independence of Mozambique and her marriage to Samora Machel. I also received a lot of responses about the parties their families were throwing and all of the food and refrescos people were going to have this weekend. But the students who really took their time and were thoughtful about this assignment provided answers that really hit me in the heart. I asked "what is the significance of Mozambican Women's Day" and "why is Mozambican Women's Day important for both men and women". Here are a few answers that I loved (translated):

"The concept of gender is just a concept" - Sergio

"We commemorate the Day of the Woman because it's not a favor (easy) to be a woman" - Luisa

"Celebrating women is important for all nations because discrimination still exists between men and women" - Raimundo

"We celebrate the value of our history and the fight for Mozambican women to affirm their identity and their rights" - Silencio

"We celebrate to remember the importance of women's rights in Mozambique" - Edgar

"This Mozambican holiday is important because it is important for our children to hug and love our mothers" - Eulanda

"Mozambican Women's Day is very important for all women. This was the day that our heroine Josina Machel lost her life and it also serves to remind us to be kind and to love all women."
- Eunice

"7 de Abril is a day that women can be happy and because of that all people can be happy." - Celma

"Women are fighters, women are couragous, women persistent in our dreams, women are the beautiful flower of the world." - Julieta

"This day is important because when my sister has to return home late at night she is afraid she will be injured." - Joni

If that last one doesn't just break your god damn heart I'm not sure what would... Reading these responses made me fall in love with my students all over again. I am so proud of them - boys and girls alike for being so strong in an often harsh world (same goes for my Denver North kids - miss you). Growing up is HARD... I'm reminded of that daily. But what I witness even more frequently is that growing up a girl can mean a loss of childhood. Here in Manje young girls spend their mornings doing chores, caring for siblings, fetching water... then they help prepare lunch before heading off to school. After school they have maybe an hour before they are expected home (if they aren't expected immediately to help prepare dinner and assuming they don't have to spend that hour walking home). When they get home they help with more chores and watch their siblings again. There is very little time to run around and play or hang out with friends (compared with the amount of time American teenagers get to run around free as birds). The second thing I've noticed is the girls who aren't daughters to the relatives they live with wind up doing even more work. The Cinderella complex Mozambique has going on really really gets to me. Oftentimes girls go to live with aunts and uncles in order to attend a high school because many rural towns only offer grades one through eight (or less). By living with their extended family they are expected to work to "earn their keep". Those girls quite seriously work all day long when they are not in school and essentially become the family maid. I could go on and on about the challenges women face: from lack of sufficient healthcare, to missing school because of menstruation, to gender-based and domestic violence, the list is endless. However, I do want this post to have an overall positive message, which is ultimately that WOMEN ARE BRILLIANT, RESILIENT, AND BRAVE. Before I highlight some of the wonderful Mozambican women I am lucky enough to call friends and family I want to provide some resources for you all to check out.

Water Themed:
Women Still Carry Most of the World's Water
Millions of Women Take a Long Walk with a 40 Pound Water Can
Gender and Water

Gender-Based Violence Themed:
Violence Against Women in Africa
Comprehensive Gender-Based Violence Resources and Information


Now, the fun part! All the fun-loving girls, teens, and mamas I've come to love!!!

Cremilda and Marina: These two were my very first introduction to strong independent Mozambican women. I don't think I would have made it through training without their love and support during all the ups and downs. Their patience while I was learning Portuguese, their acceptance of my love of napping, and their pushing me to spend time with friends to de-stress made me love my first few months in Mozambique despite them being some of the most challenging. Cremilda was constantly making me soups when I was sick, bought peanut butter because she knew it was my favorite, and would make me special portions of chicken because she knew I didn't love the fish. She was thoughtful and understanding and that made a world of difference when I was struggling to find my place. She called me her daughter from day one and still does. She constantly reminds me that I am forever a part of their family and for that I will always be so incredibly grateful.


Ludovina, Simplicia, Izaida, and Leonilde: My second stay with a host family proved challenging at first, becoming familiar with a whole new set of people was hard. But again, they welcomed me with open arms and treat me as family. I am constantly referred to as "tia" (aunt) or "mana" (sister) and they look out for me when I need help with anything. Leo is one of my students which sometimes can feel weird because I have a huge soft spot for her but in the classroom I'm still "Professora Alechandra". This family spoils me with foods from their farm and are always stopping by to give me baby time with Elias and Lofa. After watching them all come together while Elias was sick I have a newfound respect and admiration for what it means to be a family in Mozambique. Some of the strongest women I know are a part of my host family here in Manje and their presence in my life and in my service makes me happy and grateful.


Catarina: My first Mozambican friend! She is a co-worker at the school with me and quickly took me on as her responsibility. She always makes sure I know where to be and when, how to dress, and the general plan. I love her company and it's been so nice to have someone who checks in on me from time to time and stops by just to chat! She also has the best kids in the world and I love them too.


Pascoa, Gercia, and Nivalda: My neighbors and inherited family. The husband of Pascoa is my boss and the 'vice principal' at the school. They have a long standing history with Peace Corps volunteers and as such sort of asserted themselves as Ro and I's friends and family from the beginning. There are so many times I miss the culture of privacy we have in the U.S. but other times I really appreciate getting to watch these two young girls grow up. Pascoa likes to check in if I don't come around their house often enough and depending on the day it's appreciated. I prefer my visits to their house because it usually involves buying bolos (mini donut type things) and allows my introvert self to slip home when I've hit my socializing max. However, one thing I love and appreciate about Pascoa is how hard she works for her family. She has taken in a whole host of kids that are not her own and makes sure they are getting an education and does her best to raise them to be "good" kids. She pays for the education of her own son in Maputo (an expensive place to live and study) and her nephew at the ADPP here in Manje. She also takes on her sister from time to time and frequently has 7+ kids living with her. She spends her days making bolos, peanuts, and popsicles to sell in the market all to get by and help out her family. She may from time to time be overly concerned with my business but she has a good heart and she is the epitome of working for all that she has (and all that she gives). Side note: I didn't do them any justice by lumping them in at the end but I love her nieces, Joana and Narcisa, they are two of my favorite young girls in the neighborhood and they work so so hard!


Aidinha: I've already written about Aida but she deserves more than one shout-out. She started out as my biggest growing pain in the classroom, quickly became my favorite student, then morphed into a kind of little sister, now also has crossed into friend territory, and also helps me out so much with favors and taking care of Luma while I'm gone. She loves using my phone to take selfies, we've found ourselves in the weird realm of having awkward conversations about sex and relationships, and she's tried a lot of "American" (really just non Mozambican) foods that she hates. I definitely didn't plan to find a best friend in a 15 year old but I'm sure glad I did.


Carme: Another full of life teenager with a knack for sass that reminds me too much of myself.


Marta: My sitemate, Miryam's, BFF who is so incredibly full of life - I just can't get enough!


Some other women I don't know the names of but appreciate! First, my favorite bolo vendor from Malawi who always speaks English with me and is too kind. Second, a strong Mozambican mama on public transportation with her kiddo. To me, this woman is the face of all Mozambican women, with her family on her back she takes on the world one day at a time!


Lastly, who would I be if I didn't throw some sort of "political" statement in at the end, right? I think it's important we always take a moment on these days of women's empowerment to remember that men MUST be a part of the conversation too. We need more dudes to get involved, support the badass women in their life, and recognize that we are forces to be reckoned with. Too many of my students will watch a man in their life emotionally or physically abuse a woman, I have seen with my very own eyes too many of my male students emotionally or physically abuse my female students, and too many kind and loving young men could grow up and harden becoming harsh and cold because society teaches them to be. When we talk about empowering women to be strong and brave and to embrace their intelligence and competence we must also teach young boys what it means to protect their soft kind hearts, to respect women, and to listen when we speak.

A little inspiration from Nayyirah Waheed:


Thursday, April 5, 2018

Elias' Story

In Mozambique, and around the world, April is a month dedicated to raising awareness about malaria. As Peace Corps volunteers we participate by giving lessons to our students about the causes and outcomes of malaria, as well as, repeatedly discussing preventative measures. Here in Moz we are lucky enough to have a competition – we participate in activities to “raise awareness” and “educate the masses” and the winning province gets an extra vacation day. (Tete has won twice in a row now) I’m proud of our accomplishments here in Tete, not because of how many volunteers changed their profile picture or updated their status with important statistics about the current state of things, but because we have also found creative ways to make malaria awareness and education an everyday part of service… for Ed volunteers as well! As it should be! In training, we touched lightly on the subjects of HIV/AIDS and malaria… but living in my small community I see the impacts of these diseases every day. Thanks to a handy infographic posted by another volunteer (go check out @woahinsecto on Instagram) I can share with you that “malaria is the number one killer in Mozambique, accounting for 29% of all yearly deaths” and that “mosquitos are the deadliest creature on Earth, responsible for 830,000 deaths per year”. Malaria is a parasitic infection that is both preventable and treatable! However, inequality in access to health care makes it a deadly disease in many African countries.

As part of Malaria Awareness Month, I want to share with you the story of Elias, my two-year-old host brother. I think sharing statistics and the background story of malaria is GREAT. But I also feel it is important to humanize the issue by showing you the smiles of those who have been afflicted. Back in January, babe Elias caught malaria for the 5th time... he started getting very sick rather quickly and after nearly a week, the Centro de Saúde in my town, felt they didn’t have the resources to help. They were encouraged to try the Hospital Provincial in Tete City, the provincial capital, to seek a wider access to medicine. Unfortunately, the city also didn't have the correct medication for his treatment. By this point, Elias had developed an infection in his stomach that had spread to other parts of his body, causing him to be unable to walk or move much at all. As a last resort with no other options, my host mãe, Ludovina, and one of my cousins, Simplicia, went to stay in Malawi for what wound up being 6 weeks! My host mãe and cousin are both domésticas, meaning they don't have formal jobs but maintain family farms to bring in food for everyone (their families are very large and combined the whole family is HUGE). My mãe used all the money the family had to help save Elias and still has a pretty hefty bill to pay in Malawi. My host family and I were all very scared for at least two months - when it seemed likely that he may not get better. Thankfully Elias is doing well and is slowly becoming healthy again! However, they are still making regular visits to Malawi to pick up more medicine to continue combating symptoms that have arisen from other secondary health issues.

This is all to say, malaria kills! A simple, preventable, treatable disease can spiral out of control when people and communities don't have the necessary resources to adequately address the issue. The second “take away” is that every damn day is Women's Day and this Saturday April 7th is Mozambican Women’s Day... but again… EVERY. DAMN. DAY!

Every woman pictured, and many others who are not, stepped up while my mãe and cousin were away in order to keep the households running and to take care of all the crianças (children). In Mozambique, Women's Day takes on a whole new meaning for me, recognizing that young girls, teenagers, and young women alike all contribute to the success of a family and society. A neighbor commented yesterday, "eh it's just another day, too much to do here at home to celebrate”. The women of Mozambique are so busy they don’t even stop to celebrate the day! (Thankfully 7 de Abril seems to hold some more weight and there are ceremonies in the morning – but I assure you everyone will get back to their regular routines as soon as they can)

While Elias’ story feels “extreme” I promise that it’s not. Babies and young children catch malaria easily and often. I have many neighbors who have children that have gotten sick more than once since I have been in here in Mozambique (that’s more than once in a year and a half!). My Vice Principal's daughter is currently home sick with malaria. Nearly everyone I know in Manje has had malaria at least once. Last malaria awareness month (we participated in October) when I polled my students on how many had they themselves caught malaria – more than 50% raised their hands. When I then asked how many KNEW someone who had had malaria – a whole 100% of them raised their hands. That’s in the ballpark of 300 teenagers who personally know another person who has experienced malaria. This disease is a common and accepted part of life here in Manje, in Tete, in Mozambique, and in southeastern Africa. Many volunteers spend their time raising awareness about malaria: participating in net distributions, reading to young kids about malaria, teaching teenagers how to make repellent, creating plays to share at school events about malaria, writing catchy songs to spread amongst the kids. According to the CDC, “malaria is considered a disease of poverty. Efforts that aim to create healthier, more productive lives for people living in poor malaria-endemic areas also help fight malaria”. If you want to find a way to get involved, please take a moment and browse the links below (after host family photos of course)!

Happy, healthy, goofy Elias

The "back-up" team! Izaida (17), baby Lofa (5mos), & Leonilde (14)

Celebrating International Women's Day 2018 & Elias' recovery!

Ludovina & Elias stopped by for a visit to show off his birthday present outfit!

Leo asked me to take this picture of her and to print it out (it's not incredibly common for families without the means for a nicer quality phone to have pictures of themselves - even though Mozamicans love photoshoots!)
Elias selfie! Farthest left is my oldest host brother Dano & the two in the middle are neighbors!

Organizations that raise money for insecticide-treated bed nets:
CDC Foundation
Malaria No More
Nothing But Nets

Other Resources:
The Fight Against Malaria Article
Roll Back Malaria
Roll Back Malaria Mozambique Information 2010
USAID Malaria

Sadly, the website for the President’s Malaria Initiative no longer exists… Let’s all take a moment of silence for that.
*PCVs feel free to use these "how to guides" with your youth groups!
Mata Malaria Google Drive
How to Guide Natural Repellent
How to Guide Casca Candles

Repellent Ingredients

Students Prepping a Tincture Mix

Luisa with the "after" and me with the "before" - tinctures

Aida adding cloves to the rubbing alcohol

Me adding rosemary to the mixture

What the tincture looks like after two weeks

The soaked herbs ready to be boiled!

The first finished product! The natural repellent costs about 500MT per liter to make (mostly due to the cost of alcohol in the pharmacy) - but a liter can go a long way!

Halloween 2017 - Tabard is the repellent PC gives us

Cleiton trying to light the lemon peel candle

Up close view of lighting the oil/peel candle

As you can see it takes a few tries to get the hang of it!


Some throwback Elias photos from October 2016!
 

Tuesday, April 3, 2018

Monthly Blurbs: 9/16 to now


Given that I am now 19 months into my service it would be difficult to fully capture for you all everything that has happened since September 2016 – but I will post a blurb about each month thus far!


September 2016: This feels like ages ago and I don’t remember life too well from way back when. I know I felt overwhelmed with language acquisition and like I would never learn to speak Portuguese (my skills are still very questionable). But I loved my host family from day one. They are the most amazing people and I loved my host brother Ermy. We learned to communicate without words right away and he was my little buddy for all of training. September was a lot of “welcome” messaging and getting to know other PCVs – learning our way around Namaacha and figuring out our place in the PCV world. I cut my hair within a week of being with my family and realizing that a bucket was never going to work for the foot plus that I had. My mae Cremilda helped me cut it – she was always helping me from day one in every way she could! My language group quickly became my best friends and support system and our teacher Arsenio is still to this day my favorite PC staff member! He is the only reason I can function in Mozambican society! We spent some time in Maputo – and we learned a lot about the "ins and outs" of Mozambican culture.
October 2016: Somewhere along the way you get “comfortable” knowing nothing… and being in a constant state of learning. We found out where we would be living for two years and that I would be living with Rossana… and we spent 2.5 weeks at site (for me in Manje) with a new host family. I remember being so frustrated with my living placement and so frustrated at the idea of Manje for two years. It was hot as hell… we both had UTIs from dehydration within the first week and a half. We got to Tete during the hottest time of the year (in the 100’s every single day… rarely cooling off). The flies were out of control. I was finally getting better at Portuguese only to find out that most of Manje speaks Chichewa and Portuguese is rarely spoken except for at school and in professional settings. It was a whole new start that I wasn’t ready for. But my host mae Ludovina here in Manje was a domestica which meant she was home most of the day, so we would sit outside on the porch to stay cool, and talk here and there… but mostly just be in each other’s company. Elias was my favorite part of phase 2! He was still a baby and such a happy one at that! Rebekah the volunteer we were replacing was still here so we were able to see our house and learn a bit more about the school. It was pretty discouraging to see how many of the classes we were supposed to sit in on just never happened. But it was toward the end of the school year and many professors had “given up” in a sense. It was all in all two and a half weeks of “wtf did I sign up for!” and lots of questioning. I drove Ro crazy with my bitching and she drove me crazy with her optimism (which of course reversed itself in due time – rinse and repeat!)
November 2016: We headed back to Namaacha and I was so so happy to see my family and know I still had a month left with them. It was also so fun to see all our other PCV friends and really get to hear about everyone’s experiences. We realized we couldn’t complain too much – some of our best friends were going to spend two years without power. Ro and I definitely started to rethink the idea of living together after the time we spent in Manje but ultimately talked it out (as always) and decided to go for it. And we did a damn good job of figuring shit out ever since! We spent Thanksgiving at our country director’s house in Maputo which was a really nice way to celebrate! And slowly training came to an end… honestly these three months DRAGGED ON and again… flew all at the same time. It BLOWS MY MIND that training was so long ago when we were all in Namaacha together every day. I definitely miss being able to see the people I got closest with on a more regular basis. One downside to Tete is how incredibly physically isolated it is. Back when we had a travel ban due to safety concerns with the political situation we were essentially “trapped” in Tete unless we wanted to fly (which is very expensive here in Moz). Now that the travel ban is over I have been lucky enough to visit pretty much all of my best PCV friends and their sites! It’s always really fun to see firsthand how people live and what their communities are like! It helps finally round out someone’s story of service when you can see it for yourself!
December 2016: Officially moved to Manje! Bought a fridge in the city and made our first shopping trip. The first few nights we slept in a tent… but that got incredibly hot so we made a mattress fortress in the living room until our beds and bags were delivered. The first week was a lot a lot of cleaning! Spent a lot of time in December watching chick flicks and Harry Potter – I think Ro and I hit around 60 movies. Towards the middle of the month the furniture we had ordered from a local carpenter, Alberto, arrived and we were able to reorganize the house quite a bit and finally start to unpack. Alberto has since been our go to man for any and all house projects. This was also the first time we got locked out of the house and had to break in with the help of our neighbors. Now we permanently have to shut the window we cut the screen on. For Christmas we went to Angonia and visited other PCVs. It was great, we all made a dish for dinner, and then we watched Love Actually with mulled wine. We had Christmas Day brunch with mimosas. For NYE we had a super fancy dinner at one of my favorite restaurants in Tete City, A Brasa, and then we went to a party – which didn’t start until 1-2 AM.
January 2017: An incredible amount of downtime. An incredible amount of home improvements and repairs. Shaved my head – sent 12+ inches to Locks of Love. Got electricity – that was awesome! Made the school schedule and was able to line up my classes in the order I wanted (also was able to only work T, W, TH). Welcome back to school celebration. Baby Maddox was born – made me so homesick! I also found out this month that two of my favorite people (adopted parents) got engaged but sadly I would miss the wedding (this changed and I planned to go until visa problems came up meaning us PCVs can’t leave Moz for the time being until things are resolved). This was a super important realization for me that has impacted my service – just how many important life moments I’m missing by being here. I knew when we signed up that you’re “giving” things up – but it didn’t really hit me what all that included until they got engaged and my nephew was born.
February 2017: After two months of sitting around we finally got to start teaching! I learned quickly that my students didn’t love learning English and found it challenging and that I also didn’t love teaching it. But I started incorporating music into classes and talking about geography and the environment which are two of my passions and everyone’s interest and moods seemed to improve! I spent my first birthday away from my friends and family which proved challenging… big markers like birthdays and holidays are always days where the distance and time away really hits home. But I got to celebrate with my fellow PCVs in Tete City! We had a fun scavenger hunt around the city and a good dinner followed by a night of dancing at a local bar called Rogers.
March 2017: March was a month of new friends. Ro and I spent a couple of weekends in Tete City and met some people from Portugal who work at the coal mine. Actually, they work for the explosives factory that sells to the coal mines. Who knew they would turn into some of our best friends during service! It was so nice to meet a younger woman to hang out with and chat with! Sadly, since then Marlene has gone back to Portugal, but I’m always grateful I met her! Some of the Ports are still here while others have also returned to Portugal or other countries for work. A lot of my favorite Peace Corps memories were spent with this group of friends! During March Ro and I also met some Mozambican men at a hostel restaurant, one man in particular really made an impact on my service. He told me a story about a man in a hospital who told his roommate everyday about a beautiful garden just outside his window yet when he passed away the man realized there was no garden. The nurse informed him that his roommate had been blind. The Mozambican man’s point was to be patient with my students and to always focus on building them a garden. Paint the picture of their futures so they know what it could look like. These messages really stuck with me! During this month we also had a visit from Sanjay our Country Director here in Manje.
April 2017: Went to Lake Cahora Bassa with Marlene and Carlos (Ports) – had an amazing time! We went on a boat ride and saw hippos and crocs! Had a health scare (come to find out the beginning of many) and brought Ro along for the ride! Been super grateful for her support throughout service. Staying and feeling healthy in Moz is probably one of the hardest parts of service. My body has done some very weird things since being here and I always feel like I’m functioning at less than normal. We also had Reconnect during April which is a conference spent with other PCVs getting together and talking about how service is going so far. We also tack on a conference with counterparts at the end to talk about grant writing and how to get projects started. I was still coming off being sick and it was so nice to be in a fancy hotel with the softest blanket I’ve ever seen in Moz. I took so many naps and ate some great food – it was amazing! I also found out during this time that I had a negative reaction to the initial meds I was taking so was back to fixing a different health issue (I’m telling you when it’s not one thing it’s another health wise). On the way back from Reconnect I went to visit a PCV who lives in Chitima (road to Zimbabwe – I live on the road to Zambia). We went to kalamidades (the second hand clothes markets that Mozambicans buy their clothes at) and I found some amazing stuff! This was also the first time I met the Chileans who also quickly turned into some of my favorite people during service! I also read the Little Prince for the first time over the course of a morning and it helped turned my attitude about service around a little bit. April also brought with it a huge desire to make a trip back home to see some of my best friends in Denver but knowing I couldn’t and feeling trapped in my decision to serve in the Peace Corps.
May 2017: Switched energy companies which led to no energy until we got a debt on our account from previous volunteers paid. Celebrated our sitemate Miles and had a despedida (or a going away party) with other volunteers. We had lunch at the Manje favorite chicken place, had a goat feast, and played lots of tri bucket. I got to facetime with the rugby boys at the yearly banquet which made my heart so full! I miss the homie Denver crew so much! Marlene and Carlos came to visit Manje and we ate at the chicken place again – they brought us pizza bless their souls! I taught an HIV/AIDS lesson to all my students and it felt very successful! One of my students had his first seizure in class – by far one of the hardest moments of service and of working with kids in my life. Really highlights the disparity in access for people in Mozambique compared to more developed parts of the world. He is epileptic and could easily be treated with access to the right medicines and a doctor with experience related to this disease. Went to another despedida – this time for Marlene. Had a wonderful time! First item stolen in Moz! My phone disappeared. Spent a weekend with another Port friend, Fabio, and Ro and another PCV – lots of awesome food, movies, and good company. Headed to Maputo with two other PCVs for a vacation! Lots of travel but made it to Namaacha to stay with my host family before we crossed over the border. My mae made me Tete style bolos! And it was amazing getting to see Ermy! A bunch of PCVs crashed at my maes house and we all went to get pork and xima for dinner! The next day we did Jhon Ton’s round two for more pork and then we crossed over into Swaziland. We got to Bushfire and set up camp before heading to check out the music. Second day of the music festival I had food poisoning or some type of bug and spent most of the day in the Tete getting sick. Finally, around 8pm someone mentioned the medical tent which I hadn’t previously thought of – and a very kind Swazi man CURED me. It was crazy how quickly I felt better. I slept it off and woke up super early the next morning to fully enjoy the last day! I ate all the food I could get my hands on. We all spent a last night in Maputo – said goodbyes to friends who live far and to Fabio who was heading back to Portugal for good. Headed back to Manje.
June 2017: Had a JUNTOS workshop – took my counterpart Fargi and five kids to Chitima for a weekend of activities and learning with other community groups. Got to see the Chileans – kids had a great time. We headed home and stopped for KFC on the way. Got to see Moana in the Tete City theater. More home improvements – we got a trash pit! Got a coworkers number – she has since turned into a friend here in Manje. At the end of the month Tete journeyed to Zambezia province for Beer Olympics – one of the most fun road trips I’ve ever been on! I also finally got to see two of my best friends in service who I hadn’t seen since we all headed to our sites back in December. It was great getting to catch up with lots of volunteers from so far away. The weekend went so quickly but it was an amazing time! This month is when I discovered the wonders of Shoprite cheese. I have been treating myself ever since.
July 2017: Started off with the Tete Provincial Science Fair in my town Manje! It was such a cool experience to get to see all of the awesome projects kids had worked on and I got to be a judge! Miles officially left the next day which was super sad! I really enjoyed having him as a sitemate – such a nice mellow presence all the time! Nivelda called me Tia for the first time and started learning to walk – aka waddling around holding onto my pinky. We spent some time in the city for a birthday party and Ro got the most amazing pork ribs for dinner! I felt so fancy! Made Rosa de Jamaica for the first time at site! Watched a lot of Peaky Blinders apparently… Got an awesome capulana dress made! Lots of grading and correcting the provincial English exams for errors! Most important moment of service and a huge best friend shout out to my day one homie Kristen for FaceTiming me in for the Game of Thrones premiere! Then I headed to Maputo for some medical stuff – stomach (as most PCVs have) and dental. Got to see some other PCVs from the South and PC staff I don’t see often! Found out I was going to need a root canal – thankful for an awesome dentist here in Moz who let me push off the actual procedure until after my school break! I got to see a LOT of Moz during this break and a lot of PCV sites – we had six weeks off total because of a nationwide census. I met up with Ro and some other friends in Vilankulos and we went snorkeling and saw the Bazaruto Archipelago (Ro’s friend was visiting as well which was fun!) We all shared a big beautiful house overlooking the water and it was an amazing weekend. Then I got to go see my friend Alisa’s site and travel to a nearby beach town. We had lots of water adventures and wound up getting dive shop tattoos… a highlight of reckless and fun youth! It was really fun to see where she lived and her boyfriend from the States was visiting so it was a nice little bonding trip! Then I headed up to Beira and got to check out the city for a day and a half on my own! Flew up to the North and got to see another friend from training and his site. He lives an hour and a half from a beach town so we got to spend some more time at the ocean! Got to see one of my favorite staff members as well who lives up North! Then we went to Ilha de Mocambique for nearly a week which was an awesome time and had some of the best food of my service so far! Something unique about service... I have started getting so SO incredibly seasick! I’m not sure if it’s the type of boats they have here (dhow fishing boats) or what… but my sea loving heart is having a hard time with this new development! We also got to go to a museum and learn a bit about the history of Mozambique which was a great experience!
August 2017: Then I flew back to Tete for a hot second and hung out with Ro for a night and caught up on Game of Thrones… and flew back down to Maputo for a root canal which wound up taking nearly two and a half weeks after we discovered I had a third nerve in my tooth that needed to be removed – thus starting the root canal process all over again. I got to see a lot of PCVs in passing – again some of my favorite staff who were there for a conference! Ate some sushi, pork, and pizza! Met my fairy godmother… her name is Manuela… I was at a burger place by my lonesome enjoying happy hour and we started talking. She was in the theater industry in Mozambique and was starting a bed and breakfast type place with a garden. The next morning we met up and she showed me her beautiful oasis in the middle of Maputo. She gave me succulents to bring back to Tete (by now ¾ are dead) and bought me breakfast. She was so quirky and I loved her! I can’t wait to get back to Maputo and have a chance to see her again! Come to find out later on – she is a very well known figure in Mozambican society and has donated a lot to the arts both up north where she is from and in the capital Maputo. I think the end of August was a dark hole because the happiness journal goes blank for a couple of weeks. It was a tough adjustment getting back to site after travels and medical leave and just in general being with my friends to being back in isolation (with Ro though).
September 2017: September is pretty blank as well. I know Ro went home for a week and a half or so – which was lonely. And I went to Xai Xai for Grassroots Soccer training which was AMAZING! Ramiro one of my favorite staffers was the trainer – and Vilma who sadly no longer works with PC. They were amazing and it was one of the most effective and thorough PCV trainings for a secondary project I’ve been to! My counterpart loved it and because it was so well done he is honestly running things on his own! GRS has become my favorite secondary project to be a part of during my service! I’ll have to post separately about it! Got two new tattoos and LOVE them! Got to see a bunch of new stuff from home when I got back to site because Ro had brought me back a new bag - my old one had torn and Cotopaxi is an amazing company that looks out for its buyer! We started practicing for English Theater! I got a couch! There was a little safety and security incident that happened that now gets referred to as the “Manje Guerra”. Some murders happened and the men were caught and taken to jail but the community wanted more justice than just their imprisonment so some people from town started rioting, for lack of a better word, and the cops started shooting to calm the crowd but also killed a couple of people in the process. And the whole thing was a big mess – and had a lot of the community scared for a very long time. I was also freaked out – and had many students tell me “oh don’t worry teacher – they would never shoot you!” which was the most reassuring and tremendously sad thing I had ever heard. Oh also! This is important – huge thank you to my mama who made me Christmas toffee (my favorite sweet ever) and sent it in the bag with Ro! We started getting a fence put in – huge life changer! Went to the English Theater competition and got 2nd/3rd place and it was such a fun time! Our kids had a blast and it was a great PC weekend of events!
October 2017: Because we "placed" we were able to get some money to host a celebration! We had an “American” dinner of burgers, onion rings, apple pie, and lemonade! The kids helped cook and we all sat around and listened to music and had a good time! The next day our quintal (fence) was finished and I hung up my hammock and drank a Lagunitas and pretended I was in Colorado. One of my friends downloaded The Prophet for me – which I have been so thankful to have since then! One of my favorites to always refer back to for some inspiration on tough days. Chiuta crawl + David happened (kind of – Manje is lame). Watched all of Handmaid’s Tale in less than a week and LOVED it. Had our first GRS camp at site! Went super well (I thought) and graduated 28 kids! Had a malaria class and we did a photo project and posted signs about why we fight against malaria in the school’s main hallway! My sister got engaged – incredibly excited for that wedding! Celebrated Teacher’s Day at our director’s bar and then celebrated the success of Teacher’s Day with champagne the following weekend. One of my best friends from City Year and his girlfriend Sam got engaged and same day my cousin Nate and his girlfriend Erin got engaged! So many weddings in my future! FaceTimed with my favorite Halloween lovers Ron & Bert! Worked a lot on YES apps with students – a high school exchange program. Read Turtles All the Way Down by John Green who is my favorite (although not my favorite book of his). Had a Halloween weekend adventure to Domue which is near the border with Malawi. We got stuck on the side of the road and our Portuguese friend Carlos saved the day and we were able to get water refills! Finally made it out into the middle of nowhere but boy was it beautiful! So lush and green! I was a Tabard Stick for Halloween to participate in Malaria Awareness Month for Peace Corps but also to stick with the theme of things I’m allergic to! Halloween is my favorite holiday for all those who were unaware – so my Halloween lesson was by far my favorite I’ve ever given! I dressed up like a pineapple (again, allergies) and gave my students candy! We watched clips from Hocus Pocus and New Girl and I showed them a slide show of common fall/Halloween traditions in America. Of course, here they definitely, for the most part, believe in magic so I had to explain that in the States it’s not something we fully believe in the same way that people do here. I also had started walking in October to try to get ready for Kilimanjaro… “kind of”.
November 2017: November started out rough… lots of being homesick and feeling like I was missing important events (I’ve come to realize this is just going to forever be a part of my service – feeling somewhat trapped either due to lack of a visa/passport, lack of vacation days, or lack of funds for the long trek home for a short period of time). Our director got “removed” and we had a ceremony to say goodbye. I kept up the walking. I took in a kitten that my host family was trying to keep alive… I was incredibly unsuccessful at helping it live. I had become very quickly attached to such a tiny sick little thing, we called it Lixo, which means trash in Portuguese. My little trash cat. We went to Kaunda which is about 45 minutes away to celebrate RJ’s birthday! I found some good clothes at the kalamidades there! I found a random caramel apple sucker from the States that made an entire week happy I swear. I made Hawaiian style chili rice. Went to Chitima (on the road to Zim) to say goodbye to the Chilean’s. Got an awesome care package from my grandparents with new Nike’s from my aunt and uncle! Lots of goodies for Kilimanjaro! Turned in my grades and officially finished out my first school year in Moz! Headed to Zobue (near Malawi) for PCV Thanksgiving. We had a great meal by candlelight (no power). The next day we went to a Nyau Gule (a ceremony) – was so amazing! Tried to leave Tete to go to Nampula and had immigration troubles because of our expired visas. Got to spend some time with a friend I met in an airport – her name is Laura and she’s from Zim! It was great getting to keep up with random friendships!
December 2017: December kicked off with me traveling to Chiure, Cabo Delgado to stay with Carlos and Jason before we headed out to Tanzania. Our visas expired at the end of November so traveling was a bit of a challenge. I wound up in the immigration office and tears of frustration managed to land me on the plane. I was able to boleia to their site from Nampula City which was a huge help because I didn’t have to stop at border control between Nampula and Cabo Delgado provinces. It has been a huge hassle being in Mozambique illegally and it makes travel both nationally and internationally extremely challenging. Eventually, we made our way to Dar Es Salaam and got to check out the city for a couple days before we headed to Moshi the lodging town of Mt. Kilimanjaro. We booked our climb with Nyange Adventures and I highly recommend them for anyone interested! They were such an amazing company and all of their employees were the kindest most helpful people I’ve encountered in the past year! We had a team of 30+ people who helped us conquer the mountain! Just kidding, there was no conquering… I barely made it… but I do owe it all to our guides and porters. After the climb, we went on a two day safari which included a day at Ngorongoro Crater – it was so incredibly beautiful! Blues and greens out of this world! The next day we went on a coffee tour at the base of the mountain and got to learn from a man who harvests coffee for a living. We headed back to Dar Es Salaam, had some more sushi, dealt with some PC visa drama, and planned the next leg of our journey. For Christmas we headed to Zanzibar for a week. It is as magical a place as everyone says! Stone Town is the touristy city center with funky restaurants, street markets, water excursions, and beautiful buildings. We spent the first half of the week wandering around alleyways and eating so many delicious foods! Next we went to Jambiani and stayed at a beautiful lodge owned by an Italian couple. The water was always really far out but incredibly blue and warm! On Christmas Day we went to church (you’re welcome fam – just for you) and then had an amazing seafood buffet on the beach! After so many adventures and lots of amazing food it was time to head back to “reality” (only kind of) and cross back over into Mozambique. The trek back was an adventure in and of itself. The bus we took from Dar Es Salaam to Tanzania’s border town took hours upon hours to fill up and then proceeded to completely lose a tire in the middle of the night – while we were Lord knows where. But the second day spoiled us with a river crossing and hippo sightings! And we were greeted in Pemba by friends, beers, and some of the best pizza Moz has to offer!
January 2018: Spent New Years in Pemba, Cabo Delgado. Got to FINALLY go diving and I happily share that I saw seahorses in nature for the first time ever and it was one of the most special moments/experiences/days of my life thus far. I have wanted to see, and have searched really, on every single dive for seahorses – I even wear an Alex & Ani seahorse bracelet every day. So, that was pretty awesome! #1 on the bucket list checked off! After some beach time, I went and stayed with Jason and Carlos at their site in Chiure, Cabo Delgado for a few days (this was an unplanned extension due to the visa “crisis” we are all currently wrapped up in). Then we all traveled down to Maputo together, got some much needed Indian food, and headed to Nelspruit to the Mozambican consulate. I had a slight eye mishap first that led to an MRI and a huge scare. Turns out using eye drops as contact solution in a pinch is a HORRIBLE idea and leads to “anisocoria” also known as “wonky eye”. This did, however, lead to a ride to Nelspruit in a private car driven by my favorite PC staff member Merito, a KFC dinner, and a beautiful South African mountainous sunset. After the brief time spent at the consulate submitting our visa applications (this was only for a 30-day visa that we then submitted AGAIN to immigrations in Mozambique for a year-long extension which we are still waiting for and some volunteers have even been waiting since July ish) we drank craft beer and went bowling… two of my favorite things! I also went tipsy snack shopping (shouldn’t be allowed) and wound up with pita, cheese, guacamole, hummus, a Glamour magazine, and peach iced tea. The next day we had McDonald’s for lunch and went ice skating. Needless to say, our quick stop in SA was magical. When we got back to Maputo we still had a whole day free while we waited for our certified passport copies to be made which allowed for a stop at my favorite pork place called Lola’s (thanks to Sen for the introduction). After that, I went back to Tete and site for approximately three days before turning around and heading right back down to Maputo for a long weekend beach trip with some of my Moz 27 cohort on Ilha de Inhaca. We swam, we drank, we ate awesome seafood… a great time was had by all. Then we returned to Maputo for a week of doctor appointments, the dentist, and sessions about school and PCV life (also known as Mid Service Conference). It was great getting to reconnect with volunteers from all around the country, many of whom, I hadn’t seen since training back in Namaacha. Following MSC my roommate Rossana ET’d and moved back to the US.
February 2018: Got back from nearly two months of “vacation” to lonely house with no Rossana. Spent the first two weeks of the month trying to solidify my school schedule, begin lesson planning, and making the house into my own. I have turned the spare room into an office. One thing I desperately miss about the US is having a place to go get shit done! No coffee shops or libraries in my town. It is nice to have a desk away from distractions where I can sit and focus. I also planted some herbs and have a nice little window garden trying to grow. I had a boy looking for work help me start a garden in the backyard. I planted so many things and now that things are sprouting I have no idea what actually started to grow. Guess we will just have to wait and find out! Mid February I turned 25! Woot woot! Quarter of a century… and was so incredibly grateful to get to spend my birthday with my PC family at a friends site in Zambezia. Learning to navigate site alone and in general live alone has been HARD so a mini vacation was rejuvenating! When I got back to Tete I picked up a puppy from a friend – her name is Luma short for Plumeria which very few children around here can say. Apparently, Luma also means to bite in the local language Chichewa and Nhungue. She is very sweet and provides some nice company – if only we could get this potty training thing down. Being back at site after my birthday felt much better and it was nice to finally get a full week of classes in! (The first few weeks are always a mess with so many students not yet showing up, finalizing schedules both for teachers and students, and clearing out classrooms so kids can actually HAVE class) Being a dog owner proved challenging with the wrong treats, food, and without a collar/leash so I returned to the city for a night of fun and a day of errands. Last weekend I saw Black Panther in the movie theater in Tete City (yes, we have a movie theater and it is such a nice treat sometimes!) and it was AMAZING. Everyone should go see it. It was also great to get to spend time with the Moz 29ers (the most recent education group – a year behind me) and continue to get to know them better. Then Saturday morning a PCV friend, Abby, and I went to the paint store and I bought pastel purple, blue, and green for each room in the house – right now it is a dingy, dirty, faded mustard yellow. I also wound up unexpectedly buying five plants for my backyard (aloe, a succulent, a red prayer plant, an elephant ear, and a really pretty purple something or other). Slowly, but surely, I’m getting re-energized for year two and my last nine months of service!
March 2018: I’m not going to lie March felt like a deep dark hole – I had to refer to my happiness journal to really remember what all happened. It felt like forever and a day all at the same time. But I talked to family and friends back home in the States a lot more than I have since starting this whole thing. I used my birthday (splurge) blender a lot for hummus and smoothies which made things happy around the house. I rediscovered my love of egg sandwiches. Other volunteers in my district made visits THREE times which was awesome and exciting. I had some sort of throat and sinus infection for a week and was on antibiotics and spent a lot of time reading and watching movies. Celebrated Fran (a student) and Aja’s (PCV) birthdays! Celebrated St. Patty’s Day with fellow PCVs and said goodbye to some amazing South African’s JB and Jono! I invented the PB and peach sandwich. WE FINALLY GOT VISAS AND PASSPORTS BACK! I made mosquito repellent with students, painted Ro’s room which is now my “office” with two of my favorite people, watched and filmed a Nyau competition in front of my house, got Manje friend assistance for some house repairs, and spent time with my host family now that they’re all back in Manje. It wasn’t as dark as it felt when I look back on it all through the lens of my happiness journal. That’s why I’m grateful I have it… to keep track of all the happy moments and not to get stuck in the sad. The highs and lows are closer than ever these days but every single day has some happy to it, no matter what.
April 2018: Started April off with some beermosas on Easter morning and a chicken and batata lunch with some other Chiuta volunteers. It’s a busy month coming up! So I will keep you posted…

Some of my favorite moments since Thanksgiving (plus some hair pics from Jan '17):
12+ inches
After Ro cut the ponytail!
All gone!
Nyau Gule in Zobue at Thanksgiving 2017
At the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro December 2017


Carlos & I at Uhuru Peak

Cairns & Fog
Scuba diving in Pemba December 2017

I call this one "Wonky Eye"
Spent my birthday with friends in Alto Molocue!
Painting with Cuka - March 2018
Avoiding painting with Aida - March 2018
District of Chiuta Nyau Competition, Winner: Manje!
Easter brunch with lunch foods - April 2018